“Deep Winter Needs the Colors of Scandinavia” (Part Two)

The Scandinavian Weavers exhibit “Deep Winter Needs the Colors of Scandinavia” is currently on view (through April 2, 2024) at Becketwood Senior Cooperative in Minneapolis. While Becketwood is a private residence, you can arrange to see the exhibit by calling the front desk at (612) 722- 4077 prior to your visit to make sure the galleries are open for viewing. We recently enjoyed a gallery talk with residents, who asked great questions about the traditional weaving techniques on display.

 Sharon Moe Marquardt wove this Sami-style grene on a warp-weighted loom while on a study trip in Norway. She learned this traditional technique from Sonja Vangen and Olaug Isaksen at Lofoten Folkehøgskole in Kabelvåg, near Lofoten.

Detail of Sharon’s weaving.

Mary Skoy was also inspired by her travels in Scandinavia. She wove this traditional-style christening blanket based on one she saw in a museum in Sweden. “Red being my favorite color,” she explains, “I knew I needed to reproduce it!” Christening coverlets were traditionally woven with protective symbols to shield the infant from evil influences while being carried to church for baptism. The coverlet is woven in three-shaft bound rosepath with cotton seine warp and wool weft. The selvedges are covered with a band, woven on an inkle loom with pick-up patterns, which also includes protective symbols. (Read more: https://norwegiantextileletter.com/article/baby-basket/)

Robbie LaFleur wove this colorful half-flossa wall hanging, called “Protection,” for the Scandinavian Weavers previous exhibit “Myths, Symbols, and Fairy Tales.” Half-flossa technique includes alternating sections of plain weave and short pile.

Lila Nelson, one of the original founders of the Scandinavian Weavers group, wove this elegant danskbrogd wall hanging, which is in the permanent collection of the Weavers Guild of Minnesota. Lila did extensive research on danskbrogd and is largely responsible for bringing the technique to the United States.

Judy Larson wove this stunning rag rug called “Rippling Water.” The rug is a double binding rug in which smaller strips of multiple blue fabrics were sewn together to contrast with the navy solids. “Rippling Water” was a labor of love. “Even with all the fabric prepped and already on the shuttles,” Judy explains, “this rug took 8 hours to weave at the loom!”

On the left is another rag rug, this one woven by Barb Yarusso. The weft comes from a rug woven by her grandmother Alma Norhala, an immigrant from Finland. The original rug was woven in the 1950s, in plain weave with log cabin threading. Barb carefully salvaged and cleaned the cotton weft material and re-wove it into a new rug as her way of honoring Alma’s work and carrying on the immigrant tradition of not letting anything go to waste. Barb’s rug exactly re-creates the original log cabin threading as well as the stripe sequence. (Read more: “In Honor of Alma: A Reconstructed Rag Rug.)

On the right is “Horda 3rd Gen,” a transparency by Lisa Torvik. Lisa studied weaving in Norway and focuses her work on traditional Norwegian techniques and geometric designs. In this case, the center panel is based on a coverlet from the Hordaland region of Norway, while the motifs along both sides are abstract improvisations on traditional motifs. In 2023, “Horda 3rd Gen” won first place in the “Weaving the North” exhibit at North Suburban Arts Center as well as a blue ribbon at Vesterheim’s National Norwegian-American Folk Art Exhibition. (Read more: “Three “Generations” of an Old Hordaland Weaving Design.”)

Raanu is a traditional Finnish weave that takes many different forms. Lisa-Anne Bauch learned to weave raanu rugs from Wynne Mattila at the Weavers Guild of Minnesota. Most raanus take their color inspiration from the natural world. “Polar Vortex” explores the colors of a cold winter’s night.

For more beautiful weavings, stay tuned for Part Three of this post, which will be up later this week!

Beloved Textiles and Family Stories in “Domestic to Decorative”

The Scandinavian Weavers’ “Domestic to Decorative” exhibit included several heirloom textiles, which came with wonderful family stories. The heirlooms inspired members of our group to weave new versions of the same technique—in one case, to combine old and new in a single weaving—or to use their imaginations to create something new inspired by the past.

Weaver Mary Skoy next to the woolen blanket given at her great-grandparents’ wedding.

One of Mary Skoy’s most treasured family heirlooms is a simple woolen blanket. The blanket was a gift to Mary’s great-grandfather Per Mikkjelson Lønning and great-grandmother Synneva Fransdatter Kanelønning, who were married at the Lønning farm on the island of Stord, Hordaland, Norway in 1880. “The blanket was a gift from a wedding guest,” Mary explains. “The faded PL in the corner of the old blanket refers to Per Lønning. Sadly, the name of the weaver was not recorded.” Note: Mary always encourages those of us in the Scandinavian Weavers group to include our initials on everything we weave!

Per Lønning and Family

Mary researched the history of blankets from this era, consulting Norwegian weaving instructor and textile historian Ingebjørg Monsen. Ingebjørg sent the following information about similar blankets from that era: “The red thread is a traditional way of hemming the blanket. The colored thread is for decoration purposes, but it also makes a cover up for the hem stitches in a very nice way. The hand spun yarn in the piece is from a dropspindel. This very fine blanket I expect to have been in used in bed. Could also have been used as a tjeld (curtain) to protect from draught. The more common width of the farm loom is represented in the half width of the blanket.”

Inspired by the heirloom blanket, Mary wove a new blanket for the birthday of her great-niece. “The elements from the old blanket I incorporated are the color, two narrow lengths hand-stitched together, and most importantly the initials embroidered into one corner,” Mary says. The new blanket is also much softer, incorporating alpaca, mohair, silk, and wool—luxury fibers that would not have been available to her ancestors in 1880.

Original blanket on the left; Mary’s blanket on the right.
Close-up showing theembroidered initials.Note the difference between the simple wool fibers in the original and the fluffier fibers on the new blanket.

Beth Detlie was also inspired by Norwegian textiles: “Vegteppe was a wedding gift from my husband’s aunt to us in 1978. She told us that the weaving was done by a distant relative of mine. (My mother’s ancestors immigrated to the United States from the Telemark region in Norway during the 1850s.)” Beth’s Telemark Reflection is an echo of this beloved weaving.

Original vegteppe on the far wall with Beth’s smaller version on the right. In the foreground is the special case holding other heirloom textiles.

Edi Thortensson donated a simple but treasured handtowel. “The towel was handwoven around 1950 by my mother-in-law, Ellen Svensson, for use in her home in Tröjemåla, near Ryd, Småland, Sweden,” Edi writes. Inspired by Ellen’s towel, Edi wove a paradhandduk, or display towel, meant to cover utility towels hanging near a washstand.

Edi Thorstensson and her parahandduk.

Barb Yarusso shared two Finnish heirloom textiles for the exhibit, including a 2/2 twill linen towel embroidered with her great-grandmother’s initials. Her great-grandmother’s name was Josefiina (Fiina) Norhala. “Josefiina grew the flax, spun the yarn, and wove the towel,” Barb writes. “She gave the towel to my grandfather Eino when he emigrated from Finland to the United States in 1913.”

On the far left is the red and white towel woven by Edi’s mother-in-law Ellen Swenson and embroidered with the initials ES. On the right is the white towel with initials embroidered in red by Barb’s great-grandmother Josefiina Norhala.

Barb also has a rug woven by Alma Norhala, Eino’s wife. Alma was also born in Finland and came to America as a child. The original rug was woven in the 1950s, in plain weave with log cabin threading. Barb carefully salvaged the cotton weft material and re-wove it into a new rug as her way of honoring Alma’s work.

Barb Yarusso proudly holds the rug she rewove using weft material from her grandmother Alma Norhala.

Peg Hansen was also inspired by Finnish weaving. Löytyi Karannut Lemmikki (A Runaway Pet Was Found) is a vintage (over 100 years old) Finnish Rya/Ryu wall hanging from the collection of Peg’s friend Susan Sutherlund. It belonged to Susan’s grandmother Lydia Ivonen. Unfortunately, the weaver is not known.

Löytyi Karannut Lemmikki (A Runaway Pet Was Found)

This piece served as Peg’s inspiration to learn more about the Rya/Ryu weaving technique used in Scandinavia.

Peg’s rya weaving on her hand-built warp-weighted loom.

Kala Exworthy’s source of inspiration was a beloved quilt. “My maternal Grandmother loved making things,” she writes. “From her I learned to knit, rosmal and paint those cute plaster gnomes, which we painted red hats on and called “Nisse.” The photo below is of a quilt given to Kala by her grandmother. “I was the oldest granddaughter and was given first choice of the pile of quilts,” Kala explains. “The fabrics are from worn garments and I have always been a fan of bright colors. As a practical quilt, it has been used from day one. It’s worn and faded now but no less precious.”

The quilt given to Kala by her grandmother.

 Inspired by the quilt, Kala wove a wall hanging she calls Memory Fragments. “The wall hanging represents not only the colors in the quilt but also the random memories that I have when I look at the quilt,” she writes. “Pictures in my head of Gram at different times in our lives, red paint on the paintbrush for the Nisse hats, the smell of turpentine and linseed oil used to clean our brushes, yarn and needles and of course, lefse with mashed potatoes, chicken and crispy sugar cookies. I loved going to Gramma Egstad’s house because there was always time to make something.”

Kala’s Memory Fragments inspired by her grandmother’s quilt.

For Nancy Ellison, her heirlooms come in the form of sheep. Nancy raises Icelandic sheep and other heritage breeds on her farm near Zumbrota, Minnesota. “Historically in Iceland shepherds wore a mantel or cloak woven with locks of wool to protect the wearer from the weather,” Nancy explains. “The shaggy surface is like the wool growing on a sheep.” Nancy wove a pillow and chair cushion in this technique, using gray, black, brown, and white wool from her flock.

Nancy shaggy sheep contributed to her weaving!

Some weavers were inspired by vintage objects, even though they didn’t have a family connection. Sharon Marquart’s From Garment to Garnish was inspired by an antique embroidered bodice, possibly Scandinavian, and an antique beaded belt, which may have been part of a Norwegian bunad (ceremonial dress).

A visitor examines the vintage clothing items that inspired the woven motifs in Sharon’s From Garment to Garnish, seen on the wall.

Melba Granlund wove a telemarksteppe she called Reflections. “My color inspiration for Reflections came from a stained-glass window salvaged from an old farmhouse,” she states. “It was purchased at a farm auction in central Minnesota and currently hangs in the dining room window of our “new” farmhouse a few miles away. “

Melba’s Reflections and a photo of the stained glass that inspired the color palette.

Although humble, these beloved textiles are still treasures, even a hundred years later. As shown in this exhibit, even the simplest textile can inspire later generations to weave on. We are all part of the fabric of history, and our own small threads can have a positive impact far beyond our lifetimes. Just remember to put your initials on everything you weave!

New Year, New Project!

A cold January is the perfect time to start a new weaving project! The Scandinavian Weavers’ latest group warp is a pattern called Kukkoladräll.

The Kukkoladräll pattern was composed by Elsa Kerttu in 1926 when she was a student at Jämtslöjds Kvinnliga Slöjdskola (Women’s Craft School) in Östersund as an assignment to create a pattern in Jämtlandsdräll. It was named after Elsa’s hometown of Kukkola, a small fishing village in northern Sweden, just across the border from Finland. A lovely version of this pattern was woven by Ulrika Bos Kerttu, Elsa’s niece, in a palette she named Cloudberry. The draft for the pattern is copyrighted by Sveriges Länshemslöjdskonsulenter and provided bytextilhemslojd.se

Image of cloudberries from Pinterest.

The Weavers Guild of Minnesota is equipped with two Glimakra looms for classes and group projects. The Scan Weavers generously dug into their stashes for the linen warp. At least 14 of us will weave on this warp, so it is quite long.

There’s nothing more beautiful than a plain linen warp. Note the slightly different colors that result from blending.

Warping is always more fun with a group! (Especially with coffee breaks.) Below, Lisa Torvik explains the benefits of pre-sleying the reed to newer weavers Holly and Beth.

Patty Johnson demonstrates how she used to warp her Glimakra all by herself – controlling the warp tension while winding on the back beam. Fortunately, Lisa is there to help.

Lisa reminds everyone to spritz the linen warp with water to prevent breakage. (Lisa does this every time she advances the warp, which she does every three to four inches.)

Lisa adapted the draft for towels and included four motifs across the width instead of three.

Lisa wove two towels in different colorways. For the first, she used 16/1 linen doubled on stick shuttles for the pattern weft and 12/1 linen for the ground shots.

For the second towel, Lisa chose to work with perle cotton for the pattern weft.

Stay tuned for more updates on this project. I like to think that Elsa Kerttu’s original design of multiple squares was inspired by the many small fishing huts in Kukkola.

Image of Kukkola from Pinterest
Stock image

If you now want to visit Kukkola as much as I do, search online for the Kukkola Tourist and Conference Board. They say the area provides natural beauty, peace, and creative inspiration. What could be better for weavers?